Thermaltake Dr. Power II PSU TesterBluePanda -
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Testing the Dr. Power II wasn’t too difficult. Especially considering I didn’t have a dead PSU lying around, nor was I ready to sabotage one to create a dead PSU for myself. So, unfortunately I could only confirm the working order of the tester. So with my extra 400W PSU plugged into the wall I ran through both Mode A and Mode B to see how easy it was to use. (I will locate a dead PSU and test that feature and update this review.)
- PSU: OCZ Fatality 400W (known working)
So with everything wired up to the tester it looked like quite the mess of cable work. I tried powering it on without that 24-pin connector and no surprise there, it doesn’t turn on. However, if you’ve got the split connector with 20 pins, you can get it to work without the extra 4 pins, which of course also makes sense.
Flipping the switch on the PSU and it’s ready to go. The first time through, I cycled on my own with the Mode A feature. If you happen to look away for too long it powers itself down, so pay attention when you’re testing your PSU. But, with the screen changing to red and making noise, I’m sure you would know when there has been a failure. The first screen shows what you have plugged in. If you don’t see a reading on the LCD for something you have plugged in, hint hint, that something isn’t providing voltage!
The other screens are pretty self-explanatory. The bottom of the LCD displays which screen is currently active for each connector, and has them labeled 24P, PCI, CPU, MOX (Molex), and SATA. It shows you which rails are which and what voltages your PSU is providing in comparison.
Needless to say, this is a pretty easy tool to use. I took a quick video of it running through the process in Mode B, just to give you an idea of how simple this really is.