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Coolink Silentator Heatpipe Cooler

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As my machine is an Intel Core2Duo E6600, I will be using the LGA775 mounting kit for this installation. It’s important to note now that this installation requires the motherboard to be removed from the mounting tray completely, in order to install the cooler correctly. While this is going to be a pain for some people, it is actually an effective system considering the weight of the Silentator itself.

This installation assumes that you are removing a previous cooler, but it may be the case that this is applied from scratch in a fresh system. Either way, begin with making sure that any thermal paste from the previous cooler is cleaned from the processor IHS (Integrated heat spreader). This can be achieved with some rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover (acetone), but seeing as I have no rubbing alcohol and I don’t paint my nails, I used some strong tissue paper to clean the IHS.


It’s advised that you remove any PCI/AGP devices at this point, to save any accidental damage and the like. You’ll then need to unscrew the motherboard from the motherboard tray mounts. In my case, the Lian Li PC-60 has a removable tray, but not everyone will be so lucky. When the motherboard is free, turn it over to locate the mounting holes for the Silentator LGA775 bracket. The black cross-shaped bracket lies flush against the board with the white pad pressing into the rear of the processor socket.


This is where it gets fiddly and I am warning you now – you need to approach this logically before you get frustrated. While holding the black mounting plate against the motherboard, place 4 washers on the top side of the motherboard on the mounting holes. Then place the mounting brackets with the screw holes facing outwards. At this point, I would note that the orientation of this cooler can face either the back of your case, or rotated 90 degrees to face the top of the case. The image below shows you the former setting, whereby the cooler will face the back of my case. You’ll see the brackets sat on top of the red washers here. I might also add that there is a clearance issue with capacitors if you are very unlucky. Fortunately, the Gigabyte S3 has solid-state capacitors around the CPU socket and the bracket sits neatly above the caps, with no contact.



If you have not found yourself cursing yet, you might do so now. Take four of the eight supplied screws in the standard mounting pack and, one at a time, push the screw through the mounting hole and through the motherboard and into the back-plate that you are still holding carefully in place. I found that everything I had neatly set up fell over and became misaligned while trying to do this, so I adopted a new approach with one bracket at a time, sliding the washers underneath for each screw. I’d advise that you don’t tighten the screws much yet and simply make sure that the thread from the screw makes about one turn into the back-plate. Once all four screws have started to thread, make a couple of turns on each screw one at a time, so that the back plate makes perfectly flat contact with the motherboard. Be patient. This really will take a few minutes to get right! When complete, it will look much like the image below.

  1. Introduction & Closer Look
  2. Closer Look (Continued)
  3. Installation
  4. Installation (Continued)
  5. Specifications
  6. Testing
  7. Conclusion
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