DangerDen Custom Water Cooling Kit ReviewFormer staff writer - September 11, 2002
Tap water isn't good for water cooling because it has calcium deposits in it and it also has all kinds of chemicals in it from the water treatment plants, not to mention it will corrode your fittings. Filling your water cooler up with water isn't as simple as pouring water in the reservoir, turning the pump on, and your ready to go. There are a few steps you should do to prevent from burning your water pump up. The water pump needs to have water in it, before you ever turn it on for the first time. The easiest way to do this is to take the hose off that is going to your radiator from your water block and with your mouth suck the water from the reservoir so it flows through the pump. Be careful so you don't suck the water down your throat :) Once you have done that, your reservoir will be less full. You should unscrew the cap on the reservoir and pour more distilled water in to it. Now, you can plug your pump up to a surge protected and the pump should come on and start working. The first time you plug your pump up, only leave it plugged up for about three seconds. Why? Again, you can burn the pump up if there is no water going through the pump. Here is what the reservoir looks like after the pump running for three seconds:
The pump and the radiator drank all of the water in the reservoir. Just fill the reservoir back up and repeat the processes until the reservoir stays full.
Leak testing your new water cooling kit is crucial, before installing it in to your computer. The best way to leak test the system is to place it on a lot of paper towels and let it run all night. It's also a good idea to tug on the hoses to make sure they are all snug and don't leak. Another good idea, is to flip the reservoir upside down and see if it leaks. After running the water cooler all night, I'm happy to say I found no leaks at all! It was a flawless installation, so far anyway.
The next step would be to install the water cooling system in your computer. Since my test computer isn't in a computer case, all I have to do is mount the water block on my CPU. If your going to be installing the water cooler in your case, the all thing you have to do that I'm not doing is mount the radiator/fan. Depending on the size of your case, you may have to dremel a 120mm blowhole in the top of your computer case. If so, check out my 120mm blowhole guide.
The mounting system of the Maze 3 water block was very easy to install. (Note, you will have to take your motherboard out of your computer to install the water block.) Take one of the long threaded screws and stick it through one of the holes that is around your socket on the motherboard. Let the screw stick out of the back on the motherboard enough so that a flat nylon washer and nut can fit on it. Then flip the motherboard back over and do the same thing on that side.
Once you have done this to all four holes, it should look something like this:
Make sure you have a thin layer of thermal compound on your CPU core before proceeding. I like to use Arctic Silver 3 or NanoTherm compounds. All there is to do now is drop the water block down on your CPU (not literally) but make sure you align the screws with the holes on the water block first.
Lastly, we need to tighten the water block down with the provided springs and nuts. You need to make sure you get them fairly tight, because the water block needs to come in contact with the core of your CPU. If you don't get it tight enough, the water block may not come in contact with your CPU core and you'll get a burnt CPU as the result.
Waterblock is installed and ready to cool my soon to be overclocked CPU :)
*Just a reminder* Before turning your computer on, turn your pump on! Pump comes before the power button, always!